When it comes to our skin, we know that products with retinol (ROL) can slow down the aging of our skin and may even cure acne. But what is retinol? Retinol is vitamin A, which is derived from dietary hydrolysis of beta carotene. When we eat foods rich in beta carotene (fruits and vegetables with red, orange, yellow, and dark green pigments), our body metabolically converts them to different forms of retinoids. Vitamin A is important to maintain healthy teeth, bones, mucous membranes, skin, and soft tissues. Know however, that taking vitamin A supplement is not advisable (unless your physician prescribes it) because it is harmful when taken in excess (that is, it may increase your cancer risk).
Retinoids that are specifically formulated for cosmetics, such as topical creams and moisturizers are in the form of retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, or retinyl palmitate. A very important fact to remember is that topical retinoids can cause dryness, redness, burning, and irritation of the skin. This is why products with retinoids are only applied at night, and followed with a heavy moisturizer.
There is strong evidence from research that retinoids when applied topically are well-absorbed in the skin with subsequent changes to the dermal and epidermal layers of the skin. Retinoids are highly beneficial for aging and damaged skin (from chronic sun exposure). For fine lines and wrinkles, expect a boost in collagen production, which results in dermal thickness, thereby reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Studies show that significant skin improvement can be seen after using retinol products for 2 months or longer. You may however, begin to see some skin improvement within a few weeks of use.
The Food and Drug Administration has approved two retinoid analogues (synthetic retinol) to treat acne. These are only available by prescription, namely, adapalene and tazarotene. A physician may also prescribe tazarotene (Avage) for treating fine lines and wrinkles and hypo/hyperpigmentation. Although synthetic retinoids are effective, they are extremely irritating to the skin.
Furthermore, cosmetically-formulated retinol is found to be unstable. Stability of the product is affected by packaging, length of time it sits on the store shelf, and amount of time to use up the product. The good news though, is that many skin care consumers are now interested in natural and organic products. This has led to more available alternatives including an alternative to retinol. One such ingredient is called Vigna Aconitifolia Extract (VAE). This extract is from a trailing herb that is native to South Asia called Vigna Acontifolia (aka Moth Bean), which has been found to boost cellular renewal, a similar action of retinol. Formulators found that VAE can boost cell renewal without the associated irritation found in retinol. It is also highly stable and contains many compounds and fatty acids that act as antioxidants to protect the skin from free radical damage. It also has a benefit of enhancing skin texture and appearance.
Interested in trying a retinol alternative? Dr. Em Natural Beauty has a new formulation for day and evening moisturizer containing hyaluronic acid and Vigna Aconitifolia Extract. Visit www.dremnatural.com and look up "EM28"
As always, "love your skin and it will love you back"
Much love,
Dr. Em
Links to references used:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5136519/
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/chemistry/retinoid
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retinol
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